Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Back Down

Both teams rested a few hours at Muir and came down to the base Thursday. Jim, Rob, and Tim left Denise a note at Cougar Rock and took off to catch a plane...Veru, Brad and I hiked down to Jackson Information Center and I caught a ride to Cougar Rock as well.

Imagine my surprise when all I found was Tim's note. No sleeping bags...and the neighbors said they didn't see anyone in the last three days!?

We got word at 4:45PM from Phillipe that Denise asked about us, so we knew she, Nate, and HR got down...but we didn't know where they were. Mark, the neighbor, very kindly drove me to Veru and Brad...and then to Paradise Inn. Sure enough, Denise and Nate were waiting there (all day).

They spent the night drying out with HR and his family (below). Thanks again, HR, for taking care of Denise and Nate as promised!

When we finally met up, it was late, we were tired, and a little perturbed. Brad came to the rescue with the "home away from home" chalet...with jacuzzi and all!?

We had some coolers, some dinner, a little more fun (Nate thought it would be funny to spray Brad and me with some rainwater from a tree and got a little "thank you wedgie" in return ;-).

Overall it was an awesome trip and great experience!

 
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Summit Day

We left Thurs morning just after midnight, and saw Ashlin, Jim, Rob, and Tim on their way down after a successful summit at 9:30PM and (cold) descent.

The night was beautiful, and climbing above camp Muir incredible. We crossed Cowlitz Glacier, Cathedral Gap, and went around Ingraham Flats due to a large crevasse there.

Then up Disappointment Cleaver and the last few thousand feet to the summit. The winds were blowing hard (reportedly 50-60 mph), but we made it to the top at 6AM.

Veru felt great (Brad and me a little less so ;-), and we only stayed on the top for around 15 minutes. Due to the darkness and the wind, we actually didn't take pictures until our descent.

In the pictures you can see some of the crevasses, Ingraham flats, and the incredible scenery above 10,000 feet!

 
 
 
 
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Wednesday

The best time to head for the summit is around midnight, so that you're back at Muir before 11AM when the rock avalanches start, crevasses open, and seracs fall.

The storm ended after midnight, and some (like the Turks) wend for the midday summit (they made it ;-). While Brad and I were drying out, Ashlin, Jim, Rob, and Tim were getting ready practicing anchor placement, tying in, etc.

When it was our turn to practice, we first had a little fun (Brad as Team Crevasse mascot ;-).

Around 2PM, Tim and Rob heard from Phillipe that a "sunset summit" was possible, and they quickly geared up and took off.

We still had to practice our C and Z pulleys, so we opted for the classic midnight departure and "sunrise summit".

 
 
 
 
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The Search



Well, we don't have many images of the search mission that Brad and I undertook, but you can say hot liquids were an important part. As climbers were coming in during the storm in the afternoon, they were very cold and we made them hot drinks.

When Phillipe, the climbing ranger, told us that Denise, Nate, and HR did not check out, their car was still in the lot, and HR was not picking up his mobile, Tim, Rob, and Jim set about making 4 liters of hot drinks for us to take. We also had sleeping bags, a tent, dry clothes, and a stove. We set out at 6:45PM with instructions from the Phillipe not to go off the boot path and to keep a visual on one-another at all times.

Within 20 minutes we were 1,000 feet lower, in a white-out, off the boot path, and in disagreement as to where we should go. Brad went to take a look around while I checked the map and we lost visual contact...

We quickly got oriented, regained the visual, and found the boot path. By 7:45PM we found Denise, Nate, and HR camped out as cozy as could be at 7,200 ft. They hunkered down in the storm and were waiting it out a few hundred feet from the trail. We gave them a stove (the only thing they didn't have), and asked them if they want us to stay with them, walk down with them, or head up by ourselves. They were happy to see us, but fine and told us to head back up.

2,800 vertical feet and 2 hours and 45 minutes later we got back to Muir as wet, cold, and miserable as the climbers we helped out with hot liquids. The Turkish team was still up, so they made us hot drinks (what goes around comes around :-). Veru helped us get out of our frozen clothes, hang them up, tuck in to our sleeping bags, and dry out in the AM. Here I am wearing her (slightly tight) outfit...and the jester with baggies on his feet is Brad drying out.





















Everyone was great in supporting our little mission and helping us get dry and ready for
our summit bid Wed night!

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Tuesday


Muir was beautiful, and we stayed in the stone shelter while some hard-core climbers (like Tim on Tues) stayed in tents.

The clouds rolled in, though, and Nate (pictured smiling right after the vomiting) felt a bit better.

At 11AM we made a decision to have Tim's team take on Ashlin while Denise and Nate would go down with her experienced partner HR (who had some gastrointestinal upset from a recent trip to Mexico).

We hung out and waited for the storm to pass to see if we could make a summit bid...until at 5:30 PM the ranger informed us that Denise, Nate, and HR have not made it down.

The last picture is of us deciding that Brad and I will go look for them.

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Monday


Monday was beautiful, and we got as geared up as possible to protect ourselves from the sun (although noone outdid Tim ;-). We carried heavy loads (children 30, women 40-45, and men 50-65 lb). The hike was tough, but we kept our spirits high. Once at Muir, we made dinner and turned in (Nate was feeling a litle altitude illness :-(



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Arrival

Saturday, Jul 26th Denise, Veru, Nate, Brad, and Jakub (subsequently named team Crevasse ;-) arrived in Seattle. We stayed with Jason and Michelle (who with Ava and Xander were great hosts!). Veru came on a separate flight, and Brad decided to ride his Ducati over 1,100 miles from LA!? In the pictures, you see Rainier from the plane, Nate with Mucluck, Ava, and Xander, and all but kids under 10 on the porch.

Sunday we got up, hit Trader Joe's and REI Flagship store in Seattle...and headed for Rainier where we met Tim, Rob, and Rob's brother Jim.



























Here you see our campsite at Cougar Rock Sunday night, the brothers, and Tim reading the map.